Tamales Oaxaqueños Tradicionales

Introduction

Tamales are one of the oldest prepared foods in the Americas — evidence of their existence dates to 8000 BCE, when Mesoamerican civilizations wrapped ground corn dough around fillings and cooked them over fire. They were carried by warriors and travelers, offered to the gods, and shared at every significant gathering. The word comes from the Nahuatl tamalli, meaning 'wrapped food.' The Oaxacan version is particularly beloved: a generously seasoned masa mixed with lard for richness, wrapped around a filling of shredded chicken bathed in red mole sauce, with briny olives, capers, and plump raisins adding unexpected layers of flavor. Each tamal is wrapped in a dried corn husk, which imparts a subtle earthy aroma during steaming. Making tamales is always a communal activity — families set up assembly lines and fill entire afternoons with music, conversation, and the steady rhythm of spreading masa. The recipe below breaks the process into manageable steps for a home cook working solo.

Ingredients

• 500 g (4 cups) masa harina (nixtamalized corn flour)
• 200 g (7 oz) lard at room temperature
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 400–500 ml (1.75–2 cups) warm chicken broth
• 400 g (14 oz) shredded cooked chicken breast
• 250 ml (1 cup) red mole sauce (store-bought or homemade)
• 80 g (1/2 cup) pitted green olives, halved
• 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed
• 50 g (1/3 cup) raisins
• 24–30 dried corn husks

Instructions

1. Soak the dried corn husks in a large bowl of warm water for at least 30 minutes until fully pliable. Weight them down with a plate so they stay submerged. Drain and pat dry before using.
2. In a large mixing bowl or stand mixer, beat the lard on high speed for 5 minutes until white, fluffy, and airy. Do not skip this step — it determines the final texture of the tamal.
3. In a separate bowl, combine the masa harina, baking powder, and salt. Add to the beaten lard in three additions, alternating with the warm broth, and beat on medium speed until the dough comes together into a smooth, spreadable consistency — similar to peanut butter. Test by dropping a small ball into cold water: if it floats, the masa is ready.
4. Combine the shredded chicken with the red mole sauce in a bowl and mix well. Stir in the olives, capers, and raisins until evenly distributed throughout the filling.
5. Lay a soaked corn husk flat on your work surface with the pointed end facing away from you. Spread about 3–4 tablespoons of masa across the top two-thirds of the husk, leaving a 2 cm border on the sides and the bottom third of the husk bare. Place 2–3 tablespoons of chicken filling in a line down the center of the masa.
6. Fold one long side of the husk over the filling so the masa edges meet and seal. Roll the husk around the tamal to fully enclose it. Fold up the bare bottom end and tuck it under the tamal to keep it closed. Repeat with the remaining husks and filling.
7. Stand the assembled tamales upright in a large steamer basket, open end up. Pack them snugly so they support each other. Cover with a layer of extra corn husks or a kitchen towel, then with the lid. Steam over medium heat for 50–60 minutes, replenishing the water as needed. The tamales are done when the masa pulls cleanly away from the husk. Rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Chef tips

• Soak the dried corn husks for at least 30 minutes — they must be fully pliable before you begin assembling, or they will crack when you fold them. Pat them dry before spreading the masa.
• Beat the lard until it is white and airy (about 5 minutes with an electric mixer) before mixing into the masa. This is the secret to a light, fluffy tamal that floats off the husk rather than sticking to it.
• To test if the masa is ready, drop a small ball into a glass of cold water: if it floats, the dough has enough fat and air. If it sinks, beat more lard into the masa.
• Stand the tamales vertically in the steamer with the open end facing up — they will not spill. Line the bottom of the steamer with extra corn husks to prevent the tamales from touching the water directly.

Pairing suggestions

Serve with a mug of warm champurrado (chocolate-based atole) or fresh-brewed café de olla. For a complete Oaxacan spread, add a bowl of black bean soup and a side of roasted mezcal-marinated vegetables.